Mola or Reverse Applique Tutorial

This is based on a tutorial by Noah and Mole in Issue 33 (Oct 11) of UK Sew Hip magazine.

I had clear directions from The Little Man who wanted a racing car with number four on it "because I am 4"

1 - preparation

Find a picture with a simple and clear outline - the outline will be made by your sewing so it cannot be too complicated with too fine details.  I used the Internet to search but you could draw your own picture or use a kids colouring book.

The Sew Hip tutorial suggests that you use a craft knife to cut around the outline of the drawing on both sides so that you have a stencil. (photo taken from Sew Hip)

I used an image found on a search engine

I just cut out the shape of the car and didn't bother to cut away the inside of the stencil. I then traced around my shape on the WRONG side of the fabric and added the details free-hand. Your finished applique will be the reverse of your stencil, so make sure any details (like my No4) are in reverse.
If you have a more complicated picture then you might want to prepare a stencil as above.

2 - sewing

Cut out a square of jersey in each of the colours that your design uses, slightly bigger than your finished design. (around 2cm) Don't forget that you can use the T'shirt layer too. Pin the layers to the RIGHT side of you fabric.  I think it looks best if you use a dark colour on top. You can also tack the layers together if you prefer.(I also skipped that stage ha ha) You should use no more than 3 layers or the design will be too bulky.

template drawn, fabric pinned & ready to go!

Turn your fabric over and carefully sew along the lines that you have drawn, making sure that the fabric layers are all smooth. Take fabric out of the machine.

I remembered just in time, to reverse the number 4!

wrong side of fabric

right side of fabric

3 - Trimming

The scary bit!

 Turn your fabric to the right side and carefully trim away the fabric around the outside of your design, around 3-4mm outside your stitching.
Mind that you don't get too close too your stitching or nick the t'shirt layer underneath! (told you this bit was scary)
Then for each part of your design you will need to cut down to the layer that you require.
Cut a small nick into the layer, being careful not to cut the layers below and then cut around the outline again leaving 3-4mm.
Repeat his for each layer of your design.
Trim any loose threads and ragged edges (although once washed the edges will curl & any ragged bits will be unnoticeable.)

(The stain is just a water mark from my steam iron)

Ta da!